Returning To Service

Well now, it has been a while…9 months more or less since my last post, a lot has been happening in life that had somewhat got in the way of things and brewing in general, however, with The Homebrew Festival looming it is time to pick up the slack.

The new equipment is working well but is still undergoing some tweaking and simplification as changes in work have necessitated reducing the set up and cleaning down times of each brew day, I got the chance to play with the new Chevallier Heritage Malt a couple of times and it is a truly outstanding malt to use, very rich in its sweetness it allows you to juggle around with your normal routine to create something different.

If you are looking to use the malt I would suggest a lower mash temperature of around 62/64°C and the extended mash time of 3 hours, a very slow sparge is also handy for flushing out those determined to remain sugars.

I have already brewed the Chevallier Porter for the festival and as an additional bonus I will be doing a repeat brew of Ridley’s Mild served from the wood with a little bit of luck, once I get back into the swing of things I shall post more regularly again as a general purpose brewing blog, but for now I need to tidy up, sort out and find my brewing notes!

Until next time, Cheers!

Beginning again.

Good morning to one and all!

It has been several months since my last post but they have been busy! The Home Brew Festival has been and gone, all round it was a success. 

Things at the brewery have been on the up since the move at Easter to the new premises and the majority of my time has been spent volunteering and increasing my knowledge base, I am proud to say my beers are getting better and better under the guidance of the Head Brewer, Phil Wilcox.

I have sold my Braumeister in favour of going back to a grass roots brewing system with several improvements over it’s original build.

The principal will be the same, a 50 litre copper and a 35 litre mash tun, the main differences being the addition of bottom drains, a mounted pump, copper pipe work and a simple control panel.

The pots have been delivered and the bits for the bottom drains have been ordered, so for now I shall leave you with a picture of the new shiny stuff:


My dispense system will also undergo another over haul based on a continued learning experience.

Until next time,


The Ongoing Journey

Hello everyone,

Again it has been a little while since I posted but things keep getting busier and busier! I have continued to brew albeit in a reduced capacity and trying to allow the beers more time to condition. I have also been spending some of my free time doing volunteer work down at Wibblers Brewery in Essex, this has begun to improve my knowledge and practices tenfold and the resulting beers are starting to become living proof of my progress.

Whilst I haven’t made anything Ridley’s for since the last Mild, I have been experimenting a fair bit with Porters and a Milk Stout. The Stout turned out O.K. at best, but that is down to inexperience of brewing Stouts in general, I made one nearly 3 years ago!

However, I have been making good use of the Theakston wooden pin I picked up for Christmas, they are perfectly happy for me to keep and will also have the returns available for sale in February. The most recent beer to go into it was my first (?) attempt at the Durden Park 1850 Whitbread Porter, except, as usual, my mathematics let me down a bit and I got some of the amounts wrong, but, it should still be relatively close!

The main reason of this post was to share some of my learnings from the recent work I’ve been undertaking down the Brewery, here is some of that knowledge:

Finings: Whilst not really necessary in the home brewing environment, it is always worth having access to a source as if you decide to exhibit your beer at a festival or a competition, the level of clarity that they can offer is worth the effort. They need to be refrigerated and have a shelf life of around 4 weeks, be sure to find out when the expiry date is if using liquid Isinglass, dried Isinglass will last longer but is a pain to mix up, the newest alternative I have started exploring is Gelatin, I haven’t had a chance to use it yet but I will be sure to post my findings.

Sanitisers: There are plenty of these knocking about on the market, but, not everyone is aware there is a better alternative to StarSan. As much as most would love access to Peracetic Acid, it is difficult to keep in the home, it requires somewhere that is cool and well ventilated at all times as the container lid is designed to vent off the excess gasses to stop the container swelling. It must also be diluted and keeping a container of undiluted Peracetic in the home is asking for trouble!

The best alternative I have used is Videne, it costs around £11 from Boots for a 500ml bottle but it will last you ages, it is the Iodine based antiseptic stuff that surgeons use to sterilise themselves, at a diluted ratio it makes an excellent no rinse sanitiser, If I recall, it is 1.25ml/l to dilute and as long as it is kept away from the sun, it will last a week or two (it will stain the container).

Recipes: When making beer at home, we can make beer anyway we like as it is just for us, however, having an understanding of how the big boys do it does help, it gives you a better understanding of getting the balances in flavour right for the beer you are trying to create, It is also good to enquire about the water chemistry of the beers to see what you should be aiming for in relation to your local water and your own brewing.

Understanding even the most basic water things and how to put your recipes together with the knowledge of what each individual ingredient contributes will infinitely improve your beer.

Sanitation: There really is no cutting corners on this one, sanitation is paramount! If you think it’s clean, clean it again, it is one thing to lose a single brew, yet alone 2 or 3, but to lose 14 barrels worth of beer is not an option, having the opportunity to experience this thought first hand put it in perspective of just how sloppy my sanitation regime had become, no wonder I was having trouble keeping things healthy!

Yeast: Liquid or Brewery yeast is King, if you have a local brewery, don’t be afraid to ask them for some yeast, it will be fresh and healthy, most of them are washed every so often, top cropped or renewed from a single cell, cropping and storage is relatively simple contrary to what people say!

It is best to be used within 4 days, 5 at most, any longer than this and it will need to be grown and harvested. Use a good size airtight container and keep it at around 2 to 3 degrees if possible. Local yeast is very well established to your local water and will give you a much better result that any Wyeast, Whitelab or Dried yeast will.

Hops: A lot of hops have already been contracted for the 2015 harvest and home brewing supplies will be limited, however, consider looking for your desired hops in Pellet form as they are sometimes still available, for some reason tradition is still playing a part in using Leaf hops for everything, I recently however went exclusively Pellet, these enable me to recirculate during chilling, have a smaller storage consumption and a longer shelf life.

Pellet hops haven’t got the same variety as Leaf hops at the moment but I suspect that will change as demands increase. Always worth considering an alternative when looking for hops. I did and never looked back.

I hope this has been of some (if any) use to people reading, as things settle down in due time I shall return to posting some more of my findings on tests and things as I find them out. It is a fascinating journey really getting into the depths of brewing but your beer will thank you for it, as a sideline I have been doing reviews for home brewers I know, if you wish to send me a bottle and have one done, I’m more than happy to oblige, just drop me a message.

Until next time, Cheers!


Ridley’s Mild (again) Update

I have received my water analysis back and it is about as perfect as you can get for dark beers, useless for pales pretty much, I know the brewery use to treat the water with Sulphuric Acid, presumably to lower the alkalinity, so I shall be having a look around for some later.

I also got a chance to assess the beer at the weekend and I must day I was quite impressed, its the first time I’ve managed to get the malt forward flavour done right.

There is a strong brewing sugar flavour initially but this fades into a pale malt and slightly bitter aftertaste.

This attempt was unadulterated as I decided to leave out the cask hop and the brewers caramel addition, it has a wonderful colour, this beer is most definitely on my regular rota.

Until next time, Cheers!


Ridley’s Mild (again) Update

Good morning!

I took a hydrometer reading last night (dumbarse forgot to take a photo) currently reading 1007° but my current hydrometer reads +1° @ 20° and an additional +1° For water curvature, so it is currently 1009°.

Still a little cloudy but what can one expect for a beer that fermented in less than 48 hours! The STC has been set for the 13° for 24 hours period to slow the yeast down and help them into suspension before being lowered to 10° before racking.

It will drop an additional point at 13° and the final point in the cask.

With any luck I will get some cask washing done for tomorrow as it’s still sitting on top the fridge. I will take another hydrometer reading then.


Racked into the cask on 26-11-15, Hydrometer still read 1.007 so I’ve left it at 12° in the “Cold Store” and that will eat up the last 2 points nicely:

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I also had some extra parts turn up for running a external pin on tap:



I am due to pick up my Theakstons wooden cask this coming Sunday, once it is nearly empty I will re-brew the Ridleys Mild and age it in the cask, this will probably be as close as I will get to the original. This time I will not be adding the aroma hop or Brewers Caramel just to get a good taste for the base beer.

Until next time, Cheers!

Updates to the blog:

Good evening!

As I had a little time to myself today, I decided to make some changes, namely the adding of a new ‘Home’ button in the menu and reformatting the recipe section now I have found a selection of Original Gravities for the recipes I have.

I have also made a new Facebook page to link my articles to a wider audience and make things a little easier, this can be found here:

Please like it and share it so I can get the blog ‘out there’.

I also made a small change to the description in the ‘About Me’ section, have a look at your leisure and let me know if you have any suggestions.

Until next time, Cheers!


Ridley’s Mild (again)

The time has come again to brew my house mild, a nice simple recipe for a nice simple beer:

Ridleys Mild
13A. Dark Mild

Recipe Specs
Batch Size (L): 23.0
Total Grain (kg): 2.997
Total Hops (g): 51.00
Original Gravity (OG): 1.034 (°P): 8.5
Final Gravity (FG): 1.007 (°P): 1.8
Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 3.54 %
Colour (SRM): 19.3 (EBC): 37.9
Bitterness (IBU): 24.2 (Tinseth)
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 80
Boil Time (Minutes): 90

Grain Bill
2.565 kg Maris Otter Malt (85.59%)
0.297 kg Invert Sugar No. 3 (9.91%)
0.135 kg Black Patent (4.5%)

Hop Bill
20.0 g East Kent Golding Pellet (5% Alpha) @ 90 Minutes (Boil) (0.9 g/L)
17.0 g Fuggles Pellet (4.9% Alpha) @ 90 Minutes (Boil) (0.7 g/L)
14.0 g Styrian Golding Pellet (2.7% Alpha) @ Cask (Dry Hop) (0.6 g/L)

Misc Bill
1/2 Protofloc Tablet @ 15 Minutes (Boil)
30.0 ml Brewers Caramel @ Cask (Racking)

Step Mash for 130 Minutes.

Mash Profile:

Step 1: 60°C @ 10 Minutes.
Step 2: 68°C @ 90 Minutes.
Step 3: 76°C @ 30 Minutes.

Fermented at 21°C with Wibblers yeast for 3 – 4 days.
Lower to 13°C 24 hours after skimming yeast.
Lower to 10°C 24 hours before racking.

I doubt I’ll have my wooden pin in time for this brew but it may be here in time for the next, leaving to oak out of this one for a change.

The BM heating the liquor:


The grain shot:


The mash beginning:


Dissolving the Brewers Invert No. 3:


The mash with added Invert:


Coming up to the boil:


The hop addition:


Hydrometer reading @ 1034°:


Will update the rest later on this evening.

Until next time, Cheers!


Well, well, well!

It certainly has been a little while hasn’t it!

Things have been hectic in the run up to Christmas and I’ve been very fortunate to spend some time volunteering at a commercial brewery to increase me knowledge and skills.

Whilst I haven’t had much chance to research anything major, I have had the chance to brew Ridleys Mild a few times and it is now getting close to the next level of authenticity.

It has become a popular brew with several people I know having brewed it now.

However, I have decided to invest in some new equipment to bring it one step closer, being a stickler for getting as close as possible to the real thing as it was, I have bought a Theakstons Old Peculier cask for Christmas.

I am anticipating having it empty in time to re-christen it with a batch of Ridleys Mild, it has annoyed me for a long time having a pump clip that says ‘Ridleys Mild From The Wood’ without actually serving it from a wooden cask.

I have also acquired a chiller that I will use to run a jacket and stainless pin on a cradle and via a tap.

I have ordered some JG fittings to split the line and such, Decemeber promises to be an interesting month for my home brewing.

When the time comes I will again follow through with a series of posts on brewing, fermenting, racking, conditioning and serving from a wooden cask and later on it will include cleaning and storing for those who are interested in giving wood aged beer a try.

Until next time,


How-To: Make a Mild (Revised)

Good morning!

I have taken the chance to start writing another ‘How-To’ for my favourite beer…in this scripture I shall do my best to offer some insight into how to make a simple but thoroughly enjoyable quaffing beverage.

To begin with we shall look at a brief history of where Mild Ale came from (all credit to Ron Pattinson):

In the 18th century there were two types of malt liquor, Beer and Ale. Beer was first brewed in the 1500’s when hops began to be imported. Ale was originally unhoped and had been around since Saxon times, but by 1700 ale did contain small quantities of hops.

Both beer and ale were made to a variety of strengths and a used a variety of base malts, Pale, Amber and Brown. Ale was a lightly hopped beer and Beer heavily hopped. Also malt liquor was classified by age, and those sold young was described as “Mild” and those that were aged were called “Stock”, Keeping” or “Stale”. Porter is a good example of a Brown Beer that was sold “Mild” from the 1700’s up to its demise in the 1940’s.

So in the 1700’s Mild Ale was a vague term, and the Mild Ales from this time had very little similarity with Mild Ale of today, even the weakest Mild Ale would have been at least OG 1050.

At the end of the 1700’s a new style of heavily hopped Pale Ales were being brewed, which also spawned IPA. This type of malted liquor should really have been called Pale Beer, but it doesn’t sound as good.

Also around 1800 taxes were raised on malt to fight the Napoleonic Wars which coincided with the period when the hydrometer was being introduced. Brewers looking for a way to save costs then discovered that they could get much better extraction from pale malts than dark malts, and pale malt became the base malt of choice and even Porter and Stout were brewed from a base of pale malt.

In the early 1800’s Mild Ale grew steadily in popularity and by the middle of the century took over from Porter as England’s favourite beer. Mild continued with this popularity up to the 1960’s when it was overtaken by Bitter.

In 1830 the Beer Act was passed by parliament which removed tax on beer but taxed the malt and hops instead. This Act also gave the green light to granting licences to pubs selling beer only, which further increased the availability of beer.

The family of Mild Ales from this time were classified by X’s, with X ale the weakest and XXXX the strongest. The X may have come from the tax on a barrel which was 10/- before 1830 or it could just have been an easy mark to make using chalk on the barrel.

The grists of these early X ales was simple and used pale malt with English hops The strength was similar to Whitbread’s ales from the brewing logs of 1837;
X OG 1073
XX OG 1091
XXX OG 1103
XXXX OG 1115

An interesting point is that even the weakest milds had a higher gravity than IPA.

Over the 19th century Ale gravities dropped and X ale ended up around OG 1050-1055 by 1900. The stronger milds being discontinued over the course of the century.

The difference between Mild Ale and Pale Ale wasn’t colour or gravity but rather a lower hopping rate and higher FG which made Mild maltier, sweeter and fuller-bodied.

Another historical milestone was the 1880 Free Mash Tun Act which allowed sugar and adjuncts to be used, and shifted the tax from ingredients back to beer itself. This had an impact on Mild Ale grists and saw maize, rice and sugar become common ingredients.

After 1900 X Ale started to become darker, first by the use of crystal and amber malt and then by the use of darker invert sugars and caramels. The colour change may have been the result of customers being able to drink beer from glasses which allowed them to see the beer.

Another significant and dramatic change to beer happened as a result of shortages towards the end of WWI. Gravities were limited by Law and the cheapest and biggest selling beer X Ale dropped to OG 1030 or even less. As a result brewers had to develop their skills to produce a flavoursome beer of low gravity by using combinations of malts and adjuncts.

After the war X Ale crept up to about OG 1040-45 and continued this way until the Wall Street Crash in 1929 and the resulting worldwide recession. Again tax was a factor, being increased in 1931, and rather than increase prices brewers lowered the gravity to keep the price stable. Gravities dropped to around 1035, which is around where it continued until present day.

WWII also brought shortages which persisted post war and again gravities dropped to 1027-1032 before climbing again in the 1950’s to today’s level of 1030-1035.

Now we all know a little about Mild’s origins we can move on to some of typical ingredients involved in making a Mild ale.

People often stamp it as being dishwater (the politest I’ve seen it called), but, I think that a low ABV, well crafted and complex Mild is better than any ridiculous American hop monster that we will find.

Of course there are the modern all malt Milds of today but, being me, I prefer to have a more historical touch and with all the research I’ve been doing, I’d like to share my knowledge and experience with you in the hope it may just persuade a few more people to brew one.

So, how to make a Mild?

We shall start by taking a look at the overall types of ingredients that can be involved, namely Brewers Invert Sugars No. 1, 2 & 3 and also Brewers Caramel for colourant.

As I have mentioned before Invert Sugar is not readily available unless you know someone in the food trade that can supply you with it but it does usually come with a 2 month waiting list.

The closest you will get readily is Tate & Lyles Golden Syrup, this is Partial Invert Syrup and as such is only 75% fermentable and has to be mixed with either Treacle Syrup or Blackstrap Molasses if you want anything darker than Invert Syrup No. 1, however, if you can get a hold of the real deal, I would strongly recommend it if for nothing else than authenticity as the majority of historical Mild recipes have a sugar addition of some degree.

The second most uncommonly available today I found was Brewers Caramel, this basically does nothing except colour the beer and given my average Mild EBC is around 100, this saves me a lot of malt!

The remainder of the ingredients are pretty generic, of course you have Pale Malt/Mild Malt, people will argue that the difference between these 2 malts is minute but I find Mild Malt gives it that little edge, But Pale Malt works equally as well, I use a minimum of 74% up to a maximum of 95%, plenty of room for experimenting.

Next up is Crystal Malt, another staple Mild ingredient, it varies between breweries as to who used Medium and Dark Crystal Malt, if you prefer a stronger Caramel flavour, use Medium, if you prefer a stronger Toffee flavour, use Dark, I personally use Dark Crystal Malt for 90% of the Milds that I produce but the choice is entirely up to you, I use a minimum of 5% up to a maximum of 10% in the grist.

The last major ingredient is a Roasted Malt, this can vary between Black Patent, Chocolate and Roasted Barley, I use Chocolate myself but in the early 19th Century Black Patent was very common in this style as a colourant and roast flavouring, I use up to 5% in the grist.

We won’t cover gravity as throughout the ages there has been a huge variation during different periods of time, especially with the draconian measures brought in during war times, ranging anywhere from 1.060+ all the way down to 1.027, so we have enough room to choose whichever we like but this particular recipe would suit the period of pre-WWI or the first couple of years of the war.

Now we know some of the common ingredients we can start building a grist bill, the whole idea of Mild is it was cheap and quick to produce and sell, this should be reflected in the grain bill but still with a good portion of base malt for modern drinking.

Now failing having the Invert No. 3 you can of course use Golden Syrup (75% fermentable) or any other kind of sugar Brown/Muscavardo etc. But these are 100% fermentable and will have to have quantities adjusted. Invert No. 1, 2 & 3 are 95% fermentable.

Note: Whichever sugar you pick will alter the overall taste and dryness of the finished beer.

Traditional Milds as far as I’m aware tended to finish on the dryer side of things but with an initial sweetness.

Now we have covered the base malts and sugars we can move onto the hops, as usually there is an abundance these days of hops to choose from for the modern Mild, some have even crossed paths into experimenting with American hops.

Certain American varieties can match well with the style but for this particular example we shall look at, I will stick with the more traditional English varieties.

Some of the household combinations are the well known and approved Fuggles/Goldings and Challenger/Goldings. I have been experimenting with Challenger/EKG and Styrian Goldings, this is turning out to be a very nice combination.

I prefer to keep it simple when it comes to hopping, generally I stick to a single boil addition and a dry hop of some form, but for this example I shall include a late hop addition.

I have seen many different ratios of hopping for the style but most of the articles are American authors, my own personal rates are between 0.5 – 1g/l for the late and dry additions and the remainder of IBU’s made up in the boil addition, my late additions are always added at 15 minutes but my boil additions vary between 60 – 90 minutes depending on how much bitterness or additonal flavour I want in the beer.

A typical and relatively good IBU for a 4% Mild is around the 20 IBU or 0.50 balance mark. For a slightly more bitter version I will stretch to 24 IBU.

With a selection of hops chosen we can look at the mash temperatures and profiles, for those who really like to keep it simple, at this ABV you can afford a very standard 90 minute 66° mash, this will suit the style well enough without further interference, for those with an ability to step mash you can look at something a little more complex but will work equally as well but it will result in a dryer beer.

This is the profile I have been experimenting with:

Mash In: 60° for 5 minutes.
Step 1: 63° for 40 minutes.
Step 2: 67° for 50 minutes.
Step 3: 75° for 40 minutes.

This will produce and dry but well bodied beer without being cloying or chewy.

If you wish to darken the beer measure out your Brewers Caramel (Available from Hop & Grape 250ml) before you reach the boil, this is best mixed with 500ml of wort due to its own viscosity, to work out what you need is simple, after the initial maths it equates to roughly 6 EBC per 1.45ml in a 23 litre brew length, to know how much you need just simply subtract your actual EBC from your desired EBC and divide the answer by 1.45 and this will give the the required EBC to meet the mark.

E.g: I want an EBC of 100 and my recipe is 40 EBC, so 100 – 40 = 60, 60/1.45 = 41.3ml of Brewers Caramel. Round up or down as you see fit.

Next is your choice of yeast, I personally use WLP022 – Essex Ale but as it’s not readily available WLP007 – British Ale and Wyeast 1335 – British Ale are both good substitutes but feel free to use any dried yeast or local liquid yeast to you but this will alter the taste of the final beer.

Realistically you just want a good attenuating English yeast from 75% and upwards with a low ester profile and generally more malt accentuating. If you have a local brewery who will supply some yeast, use that as it will be better suited to your water.

I will add a small section on typical water make up for the style later.

If you are casking or doing any secondary fermentation step and you have the equipment to avoid blocking any tubes you can also add 1 – 1.5g/l of Oak Chips to the beer to give an additional flavour of it being aged in the wood, Whisky Oak Chips, Sherry Oak Chips or something else, the choice is yours!

So after all of that reading we can now look at a typical example of a Traditional Mild with a modern view.

It started out as a clone beer but has been tweaked and varied with every bit of new information I learn and has now arrived at this, for the example I shall be assuming 75% brew house efficiency and a yeast attenuation of 76%, this gives us a total of 3.5kg total grain required and 385g of sugar:

Name: Old Brewery Mild
OG: 1.040
FG: 1.008
IBU: 24
EBC: 40 +/- (100 if using BC)
ABV: 4%

Grist: 95% Pale Malt, 5% Chocolate Malt.
Sugar: 11% Brewers Invert No. 3
Hops: ~1g/l – Challenger (7.3% AA)
Late Hop: ~0.75g/l – East Kent Goldings (5% AA)
Dry Hop: ~1g/l – Styrian Goldings (4.5% AA)

Yeast: WLP005/007/022 or Wyeast 1335, for dried yeast S-04 or Nottingham will do.

For that something extra add 1 – 1.5g/l of sterilised Oak Chips to the secondary stage for 7 – 14 days depending on tastes.

This will give a very good thirst quenching Mild without knocking your block off. It is well balanced between the hops and malts for aroma and should favour the malt for the flavour.

I hope I have been able to pass on some useful knowledge for all those looking to make this style of beer, I shall upload some pictures of my next brew day but until then I need a lie down!


BM#5 – Ridleys inspired Best Bitter:

Good evening,

It’s been a little while since my last post but as always, life has other plans, I managed to plan a good brew day today and decided to break the mold by doing something along the same lines as Ridleys ESX Best, The yeast has generously been supplied by Wibblers of Mayland, Essex. They also managed to inform me that the yeast Ridleys used to use came from the Whitbread B strain before Ridleys had it, so it’s doing quite well to go from Whitbread -> Ridleys -> Crouch Vale -> Wibblers -> Me.

I had to make some slight changes to the hops in the recipe as I have run out of Fuggles, Goldings and Styrian Goldings, the malt bill is the same. I have a slightly increased bitterness over the original and a slightly lighter colour as I am not going to darken it with Brewers Caramel.

This beer will be available (hopefully) at the Wibblers annual Flocculation Event on the 22nd August, here it is:

Blue Bull Best Bitter

Recipe Specs
Batch Size (L): 23.0
Total Grain (kg): 3.597
Total Hops (g): 80.00
Original Gravity (OG): 1.042 (°P): 10.5
Final Gravity (FG): 1.009 (°P): 2.3
Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 4.34 %
Colour (SRM): 12.6 (EBC): 24.8
Bitterness (IBU): 38.3 (Tinseth)
Balance (BU:GU): 0.91
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 82
Boil Time (Minutes): 90

Grain Bill
2.640 kg Maris Otter Malt (73.39%)
0.396 kg Torrified Wheat (11.01%)
0.297 kg Invert Sugar No. 3 (8.26%)
0.231 kg Crystal 80 (6.42%)
0.033 kg Chocolate (0.92%)

Hop Bill
14.0 g Admiral Leaf (14.5% Alpha) @ 90 Minutes (Boil) (0.6 g/L)
20.0 g First Gold Leaf (8.7% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (0.9 g/L)
20.0 g Progress Leaf (6.7% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (0.9 g/L)
14.0 g First Gold Leaf (8.7% Alpha) @ Cask (Dry Hop) (0.6 g/L)
14.0 g Progress Leaf (6.7% Alpha) @ Cask (Dry Hop) (0.6 g/L)

Misc Bill
3.0 g Irish Moss @ 15 Minutes (Boil)

Single step Infusion at 68°C for 90 Minutes.
Fermented at 21°C with Wibblers (Ridleys).

The mash was the standard 2 part 68°C 90 minute mash and 75.5°C 45 minute sparge. Here are the photographs from the day:

The grain shot:


Draining off the excess liquor to 25 litres:


Inserting the malt pipe for mash in:


Mashing in:


Starting the mash:


A steady 68°C mash:


Preparing the Brewers Invert No. 3 and letting the yeast warm up:



Something to refresh myself, a nice pint of Ridleys 1983 Mild:


The sparge step:


The late additions ready to go:


Draining the malt pipe:


A lovely rolling boil:


All chilled and transferring to F.V. at 21°C:


23 litres at 1.042 and tucked away with the yeast pitched:



This beer will hopefully go alongside another brews worth of Ridleys Mild for event, until next time,